User Manual

Safety Instructions

Improper installation, usage, and service can cause severe damage to the wheels and pose a hazardous condition for the rider. To ensure a reliable riding experience with XTONE products, please read and follow these instructions. Even if you have been riding or building wheels for years, the instructions and suggestions are specific to XTONE carbon products and you should be mindful of them before your first ride or wheel building. 


1. Special tools and basic knowledge of handling the bicycle and wheels are required for installation and maintenance. If in doubt, please consult a reliable wheel builder or get in touch with us.


2. The rim/wheelset must be compatible with other parts of the bicycle including the tires, fork, axles, and cassette. Incompatibility can cause poor performance and potentially damage the wheels or frame/fork.


3. We design and test your wheels for specific riding purposes. Unfit usage can shorten the product’s life and even cause a wheel to crack, causing injuries to the rider. Be sure that you’ve purchased the correct product for the job.


4. Use your hands to install the tires if you can. Re-insert the tire into the deepest part of the rim over and over again to create enough slack. If you must use a tire lever, use plastic. DO NOT use a metal tire lever as it will permanently damage the rim.


5. Be watchful of the hazards in riding (potholes, debris, railway tracks, etc). These can cause a big crash resulting in severe injuries.


6. After an excessive impact or crash, there may not be an immediate sign of failure. Please wipe down the rim, and even remove the tire for inspection, and report any potentially severe damage back to us.


7. Rim brake customers - Check your rim brake pads regularly for pollutants like metal flakes and stones that can ruin the brake track. DO NOT use pads with significant wear.


8. DO NOT overheat the wheels. High temperatures can occur in bike transport when a wheel is placed next to the exhaust fumes from an automobile. Overheating of the rims will void the warranty as it damages the composite structure.


9. Regularly inspect the wheels and watch out for any signs of cracks, scratches, dents, delaminations, or discoloration which could indicate that the wheels may need to be replaced or serviced. If in doubt, please contact us.




Four important notes to make your wheel building easier


(1) Make sure your new rim(s) are built by a certified or experienced carbon wheel builder.


A professional carbon wheel builder will use a tension meter and ensure that the wheels are built with very even tension and with stress properly relieved.


(2) Follow the spoke direction shown on a small arrow sticker.


The rims have angled nipple holes that alternate left/right/left. Please lace spokes in the correct direction to avoid hole damage. The arrow sticker is attached near the valve hole.



(3) On asymmetric wheel building.


For asymmetric rims, you need to distinguish their shorter and longer arcs. When viewing from the rim channel, it's easiest to find the shorter side and longer side by looking at the valve hole in relation to the nipple holes. Another way to decide is via the serial number label. Place the rim sideways vertically in front of you, locate the serial number label, and flip the rim if needed to put the label right side up. View the rim from the center channel: the upper part is the shorter arc, and the lower part is the longer.

Please make sure the rim is in the correct orientation - different for front and rear wheels!

Front Wheels: the shorter arc for the drive side, the longer arc for the non-drive (disc) side

Rear Wheels: the longer arc for the drive side, the shorter arc for the non-drive (disc) side


(4) Build the wheelset with proper spoke tensions.


Bring the spokes to an even tension with a maximum tolerance of 5% for all drive and all non-drive sides. For the recommended spoke tensions.

Non-drive side (Front)

Drive side (Rear)

MTB & Road Disc Wheelset

120-130 kgf

120-130 kgf

Road Non-Disc Wheelset

100-110 kgf

125-135 kgf

Fat Bike Wheelset

100-110 kgf

100-110 kgf

*It is better to make sure the max spoke tension is less than 135kgf in wheel building

Tire Mounting

 1 Tip - for clincher or tubeless. Put one side of the tire bead COMPLETELY into the deepest part of the center channel. You may need to go around the tire several times to re-adjust in order to get as much slack as you can. Then push the other side of the tire into the rim deep center and proceed from there. Always try to mount by hand before resorting to tire levers.

 Before reaching out to us for more assistance, please double-check:

A) Recommended tire width of your rim?

B) Intended tire (Tubeless/Tubed)?

C) Too thick tubeless rim tape?

D) If your tire seems too tight, try a tubeless-ready tire as it has more consistent bead diameters.

 2 Tip - about the max tire pressure. Mind the max pressures set by the rim maker and the tire manufacturer and adhere to the lower limit. For hookless rims, DO NOT inflate the tire to high pressure, or it may result in the tire blowing off. 

 3 Tip - on using tire levers. Use your hands or a plastic tire lever. DO NOT use metal tire levers as they can damage the tape or even the rim.

How to set up a wheel tubeless

1 - Install the tubeless valve stem and tighten the collar for a good seal.

 2 - Mount one side of the tire bead onto the center channel of the rim.

 3 - Install the other side of the tire bead into the center channel.
 Install the sealant when you have ¾ of this side installed if you do not have an injection tool. Rotate the sealant into an area where both sides of the bead are installed before trying to finish popping the tire fully into the rim.

4 - Inject the sealant through the valve stem (core removed).

 5 - Inflate the tire to push the beads outwards and upwards to the bead seat on either side of the center channel.

 6 - Spin the wheel to cover the inner tire wall with the sealant.
Tech Notes: double-check that your tires are tubeless compatible. Use only plastic if levers are necessary. For brand-new tires, use a tube and inflate the tire overnight to straighten it in case the foldings are too stiff. If the tire is quite tight, work the tire bead repeatedly into the deepest part of the rim and avoid using tire levers aggressively. Also, try lubricating the rim tape and tire beads with soapy water or sealant. To make tire bead installation easier, put either side of the tire bead completely into the deep center channel (ensure the gap space is smooth for mounting), then push the other side of the tire bead into the center channel. You will hear a sound as the beads snap into the bead seat. Refer to the instructions on the tubeless sealant packaging for amount suggestions.

Tubeless air leak: 4 common mistakes 

1st - The rim tape could be disturbed during tire mounting, usually from applying too much force with a tire lever. Remove the tire, clean, and retape the rim to form a good seal. To clean the rim, use isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely before taping.

2nd - Your tires could be tubeless incompatible or too tight to get seated well on the rims.

3rd - Your valve stems are not seated adequately or they could be overtightened. Remove the valve to get a closer look and re-tape the rim if needed.

4th - There is not enough sealant. Inject more sealant through the valve or break the bead of the tire to pour more in and re-install the tire.

Recommended tire pressures for tubeless wheels

We have divided our rim models into three categories based on their most common use: 1) smooth roads, 2) gravel/rough roads, 3) mountain/plus/fat bike. Please refer to the charts below based on your weight and the tire size to find the right psi. Use the recommended psi as a starting point and make small adjustments to better suit your needs.

If you have any questions, please contact

Email: [email protected]

Tel: +86-18950135081